California Dreamin..

America is so hot right now.

We might not be there yet, but thanks to the World Cup, the USA is top of the travel list in 2026. It's not just football, the 250th centenary celebrations are also kicking off across the country too.

My ten-year-old daughter Romi and I wanted to get ahead of the game, so we flew to San Francisco. The world's coolest city, and gateway to Northern California and its endless beauty.

Aer Lingus flies direct, which makes it so easy. Our trip was ten days in total- so we could pack a lot in. After landing at around 4.30pm, we hopped on the skytrain to Enterprise car hire and picked up a big automatic luxurious Chrysler SUV.

It was swift and smooth. Before I knew it we were en route to Mariposa, Yosemite- around three hours away. 

Yosemite has been a dream since I was my daughter’s age. The 3000 km sq park offers jaw-dropping visuals with Half Dome and El Capitan, untouched Alpine backcountry, waterfalls, foliage, weird looking rocks- it’s a feast for the eyes.

Despite the eight hour time difference- it was late back home, I got through the drive easily enough, knowing I'd finally wake up in Yosemite early in the morning. 

One of my favourite parts of going to the US is being wide awake early and seizing the day. Mariposa is a cute little frontier town with little shops and restaurants, and home to the Yosemite Climbing Museum/ I’m a huge fan of climbing. So we spent hours chatting to founder and climber Ken Yager, looking at photos and paraphernalia from iconic climbs on El Capitan- like pics of Alex Honnold who scaled El Capitan without a rope back in 2017.

But enough of all talk, we had to see the real thing. A 30 minute drive along winding roads brought us to the 3000ft granite monolith. Even Romi was gobsmacked. It needs to be seen to be believed. 

We parked in the popular meadow at the foot of the El Cap and hung out with sightseers, climbers and outdoor lovers. It's endlessly entertaining. Looking up at the wall, little lights started appearing as it got dark from all the climbers stuck on portaledges. Romi, who prefers shopping and walking slowly to the outdoors- even loved El Cap, especially after meeting Dexter the adventure cat and his owner Kevin, who just climbed it. Time flies at the meadows with cats and El Cap.

A night at Cedar Lodge in the heart of Yosemite followed. You sleep well and early in the US.

Our second day at Yosemite was much like our first. Amazing. Awesome breakfast-eggs Benedict and waffles at the traditional Ahwahnee Hotel in the heart of the park, blue skies, beautiful colours, lots of mind-blowing nature.

In the spirit of compromise, Romi and I took a bus tour across the park, seeing all the amazing spots, before hiking up Sentinel dome- a perfect hike for children who don’t like to hike.  The views are spectacular and it’s just a short walk. A drive into the sunset over to Tenaya lodge for the night, brought views for the ages.

Dinner and smores by the fire were perfect before bed. Tenaya has an outdoor hot tub and pool. It would be rude not to. We hit the oad for Tahoe the next day- sad to be leaving Yosemite, but I don’t think I've ever stopped so many times to take photos. It took us around five hours to get there. Lake Tahoe is the largest Alpine lake in North America- clear, deep blue water, surrounded by forests and the Sierra Nevada mountains. It’s pretty huge- nearly 500 sq km and the best place for hiking, skiing, boating, eating. We stayed in South Lake Tahoe, which is home to around 21,000 lucky people who enjoy restaurants and nightlife right by the lake at the foothills of the mountains.

It’s also a ten-year-old daughter friendly destination- with lots of shopping.

We landed at the Desolation Hotel in South Lake Tahoe just in time for dinner. It’s an incredible hotel- a micro resort built in 2022, so it's really modern, eco conscious and stylish. Plus dinner at Maggie’s restaurant on the top floor was incredible. Our home for two days was a three story apartment with a hot tub and a bath on the balcony. Say no more.

It comes with a pool, and gym too- which we gleefully used. We had breakfast at the Getaway Cafe- just outside Tahoe- my order was eggs and more eggs. I do love American brunch. Romi ate pancakes or waffles everywhere we went. The portions are huge in the US, so you’re full for ages. 

We went for a drive to stunning Emerald Bay. As this was the trip that keeps on giving, dinner was at the Loft theatre, in Heavenly village, just a short walk from the hotel. Being able to walk in the US is my dream. I hadn't been to a magic show in years and were up the front laughing at magician Robert Hall.

I coaxed my daughter into hiking while in Tahoe- it would be rude not to. So I spent the next morning at Ulta Beauty, then we headed up to Van Sickle just behind Heavenly village. You can walk from the hotel, which I love. The views come pretty fast in Tahoe. Even Romi loved it.

South Lake Tahoe has an incredible vibe. The pace is lovely and chilled out. We moved to our second last hotel of the trip- Lakeshore Lodge and Spa for two nights, where we enjoyed swims and hot tubs, walks along the beach and sunsets from the balcony.

The highlight of the trip to Tahoe was the boat tour from Zephyr Cove daytime scenic cruise. We spent two hours on the stunning lake in the sunshine, chatting to people, eating toasted sandwiches and cold drinks. As Romi would agree, there were many best moments on this trip.

When we left Lake Tahoe, we swore to come back and live in a cabin, walk among the dense pine forests, granite peaks, and high meadows, all while looking at the crystal clear lake below. It’s a gem.

But we had to go to San Francisco. It’s around 3 to four hours drive, along winding roads, past Sacramento and onto the Bay Bridge. When we got there, San Francisco was a silhouette against the mist and sunset. I never go anywhere without my little usb stick for the car and we listened to Scott Mckensie’s “If you’re going to San Francisco’.

We arrived at Union Square - right in the thick of it and parked outside the Hotel Zelos. I first came to San Francisco in 1993 and stayed on the square and totally fell in love with it.

We didn’t have too much time to reminisce as we went to see Dear San Francisco at the historic Club Fugazi. You can walk everywhere in San Francisco, so we walked through Chinatown and North Beach. It’s an amazing trapeze show with mind-blowing circus acts, live original music and lots of laughs. Great fun for parents and kids.

Our one and only full day was spent walking back to North Beach, where we hired bikes from Unlimited Biking before we cycled across the Golden Gate Bridge and onto Sausalito. It was incredible. One minute we’re on an iconic bridge, looking at San Francisco’s skyline on one side and Baker Beach- where Burning Man began in 1986, next thing we’re in a small salubrious enclave right by the sea having epic ice creams. 

Cycling in San Francisco is a must do. We hopped on the ferry back and cycled past Fisherman’s warf and back to the biking shop. The city was buzzing.

Bars were full, people cycling around, gathering on the streets. Romi was fascinated by the driverless taxis. “I never thought the wheel would move,” she said. Same here- It’s the height of progress.

The things you can do in San Francisco are endless. We walked all the way to Mission Street for dinner at International Smoke all the way down. I strongly recommend the espresso martini and the spring roles. 

A city of superlatives, San Francisco has it all- we even saw a few cybertrucks and lots of interesting characters on the streets. 

Our last moring was spent clinging on- wishing we could stay, walking the streets of San Francisco ones more - and stopping by the Painted Ladies on the way to the airport. The iconic Victorian Houses weere built during the California Gold Rush. With so much money coming into the city, builders wanted to show off their newfound wealth, hence the dramatic windows, decorated rooflines, and turrets.

This was one of those trips to remind me, not that I needed reminding - how incredibly wonderful America really is. It’s not just beaches and LA, it’s the world’s best scenery- and the Americans are and will be the most hospitable people. They love the Irish and are so chatty- whether we were chatting to staff in stores, climbers, restaurant staff and people on mountains and streets, everyone was just so nice.

The streets of San Francisco

We felt like we weren’t being ripped off either. We had some phenomenal food and the best cocktails. It was really high quality and not too expensive. You give big tips, but that's just the way it is.

You don't have to be a tech bro to love San Francisco and you don’t have to love the outdoors to love Tahoe and Yosemite, and you don’t have to be any age to enjoy them all.  As far as I’m concerned the World Cup can come and hopefully Ireland will quality and play in San Francisco. 

As ever California is the best trip in the world.

Need to know:

Travel: 

Aer Lingus offers a daily flight to San Francisco from €400. www.aerlingus.com.

Enterprise car hire from €360 per week off peak. www.enterprise.com.

Get Esta Visa forms on the official site a week before travel. https://esta.cbp.dhs.gov/esta

Rooms:

Mariposa Lodge: Rooms from €99 - €299. www.mariposalodge.com

Cedar Lodge, Yosemite National Park: From €110 per night.

Tenaya lodge, Yosemite National Park: Rooms from €200 to €400. www.visittenaya.com 

Desolation Hotel South Lake Tahoe: Rooms from €400, 3 story townhouse from €550. www.desolationhotel.com.

Tahoe Lakeshore Logde and Spa rooms from €108.

Hotel Zelos, San Francisco from €174

Best Eats 

Maggie's Desolation Hotel Tahoe: Mains from €35.

Getaway Diner Tahoe: Brunch from €22

International Smoke San Francisco: Starters from €22. Mains from €38.

Fugazi:  San Francisco. Tickets from €79.

The Loft Magic and dinner: South Lake Tahoe from €52.

Top tours:

Zephyr Bay Cruise Lake Tahoe: €100- kids go free.

Unlimited Biking San Francisco: From €37 for a half day.
Tour Yosemite by bus from €37.

For more info on California: @VisitCalifornia.
Top tips. Tipping is around 20%, flights and hotels will be more expensive during the World Cup. National parks annual passes entry has gone up to around €180-for all parks. Get your Esta holiday visas early and keep some money for hotel deposits. They vary from hotel to hotel, so make sure you enough cash on your credit card. I didn't pay a deposit on the car, so keep an eye out for extras.

 Always keep in mind that taxes aren't on the prices.