Valais for all Seasons..

I found the perfect summer playground for Gen Xers- the Valais in Switzerland. Trains, epic views, beastly mountains, cheese, vineyards, George Michael.

You can hike yourself into an oblivion surrounded by the highest peaks in Europe, followed by Raclette and local wines in a cosy mountain hut. It's perfect for my adventurous, Swiss loving soul.

I flew to Zurich and 20 minutes after landing, was on the train towards Bern. Swiss precision is a thing of beauty. 

Hiking above Saas Fee


A train journey across Switzerland never gets old. I tried to read White Spider by Heinrich Harrer about the first ascent of the north face of the Eiger, only to be distracted by the Eiger north face itself.

Two trains and a bus from Visp brought me to Saas Fee. 

The “Pearl of the Alps” offers dramatic vistas, car-free charm, glacier skiing and thirteen peaks over 4,000-meters. It attracts elite climbers, hikers, adventurers, marmot spotters and people who had life sized posters of George Michael in their room.

I stayed at the five star Waliserhof in the centre of the town, where Wham stayed when they filmed Last Christmas back in 1984. The video inspired my love for the mountains. Back then no one went to the Alps - bar Prince Charles and Princess Diana. 

I pondered how dreams come true over breakfast while looking out onto the quaint little Swiss town. After a swim in the hotel spa I hiked up to Maellig mountain. It’s 2700 meters high, but Saas Fee is 1800 meters above sea level so you get a head start.

A fabulous hike and I spotted a most perfect bench along the way. One I'd happily share with my granny who loved the mountains and Freddie Mercury, who loved Switzerland.  I was also happy to add a summit to my tally. I’m currently climbing 50 peaks over 800 meters to celebrate turning 50. I ran out of peaks in Ireland, so all Swiss peaks are welcomed.

It wasn't my first peak on this trip. The next day, after a city tour and a Roesti lunch at Die Muehle restaurant, the Britannia Hut was on the menu. The famous Swiss mountain hut sits at the foothills of numerous 4000 meter peaks including the Alphubel and the Allalinhorn, which I climbed some years back.

You reach it by taking the Felskinn cable car- from the Last Christmas video. What a fun mix- Wham and glaciated terrain. 

It’s not too big a hike, but you’re at 3000 meters, so the air is thin and the terrain can be gnarly. I always advise crampons, hiking poles and good hiking boots. I climbed the kleines Allalinhorn (little Allalinhorn) before dinner. It’s an easy 3000er beside the Britannia Hut. 

Built in 1912, the iconic hut sleeps 130 people in cosy dorms. Unusually for mountain huts, it opens in February for ski touring and snow shoeing. You meet all kinds of interesting people there. I recognised Simon Messner- an accomplished mountaineer. His dad is Reinhold Messner, one of the greatest mountaineers of all time. I’m a bit of a mountain aficionado and native German speaker, so we exchanged thrilling gossip about all things mountain.

Dinner was spectacular and included in the price - which starts at around €80 per night half board. Cheap lodging by Swiss standards, but you sleep in a dorm.

It's a busy place, people get up very early - 2am, 3am, 5am to head to the hills, so deep and lengthy sleep isn't always guaranteed. Altitude doesn’t help. Nonetheless, the mountains invigorate, and without Wifi they are the best way to switch off. 

Breakfast the next day was followed by a brisk morning hike back to civilisation and some marmot spotting at Speikboden. After finding just one little mountain ground squirrel, I cable barred back to town and headed to the Aqua Allalin in Saas Fee. It's a fabulous spa, which also serves lunch. A hike followed by a swim and sauna looking onto the mountains I’ve climbed is such a treat. You get such energy from all the exercise in the mountains. The more you do, the more you have- a gift for Generation X people.

After the spa, it was onwards to Champéry. The charming alpine village -also in the Valais is at the foothills of the Dents du Midi mountain range and part of the massive Portes du Soleil ski area. It took two trains and two hours to reach the perfect traditional alpine town with wooden chalets, flower filled balconies. The Hotel Suisse, my home for the night, is like a place I’d go to write a book. What a dream that would be- to find the time and money to do such a thing.

But there's no time for that kind of thing on this trip. The next morning, a brisk walk to the Tière Via Ferrata was on the menu. I used to be utterly terrified of heights, but the more scary stuff I do, the more it goes awayt. Which is a good thing, as the Via Ferrata is quite exposed. It's got lots of suspension bridges, a sheer rock wall, trees and views to beat the band. Lloyd Wilshire, founder of Experience Champery brought my group up. His company offers a multitude of amazing activities, no matter what your interest- from skiing, horse riding, climbing or just enjoying a coffee at their headquarters in the middle of Champery.

He's also a fantastic guide who knows the region inside out. We got a gondola to the Croix de Culet restaurant with a view of the Dents du Midi massif for lunch. The stunning experience was made exquisite by the sound of cowbells. The region reminds me of Heidi- the 1970s cartoon about a girl who lived in the Swiss Alps. I loved it so much as a child.

A long hike, a peak of around 2700 meters and views were the order of the afternoon. The Region Dents du Midi in the Val d’Illiez extends over six holiday villages, wide-open landscapes, unique flora, varied fauna is picture postcard stuff. It needs to be seen to be believed.There’s also so much to do here- 800km of hiking trails 600km of mountain bike trails, swimming in icy lakes or just sitting on a terrace eating great food with views of the Dents du Midi, the Dents Blanches, Mont Blanc. I vowed to return- or never leave.

The Cantine de Barmaz at the bottom of the valley was my home for the night. . Run by French chef Olivier Demange, the food and vista is magical. A stunning sunset turned the mountains red. His classic French inspired menu mixed with some Swiss delights was a winner- as was his Creme Brûlée.

After a great night's sleep in a ridiculously cute and cosy dorm, I woke up to cowbells in the morning, before enjoying coffee on the terrace, savouring the last moments of beauty. A gem that keeps giving.

An hour's walk down the hill took me to Champery before the home journey began- a train via Montreux and Lake Geneva. What a lovely end to a trip I didn't want to end. 

But, I packed a lot in- leaving fresh and energised- a perfect Gen X holiday. 

As I looked out the train window, I also vowed to return. How could I not?


Fact box:


Hotel Walliserhof in Saas Fee: from  walliserhof-saasfee.ch from €200 per night, single, €440 double room.

Brittannia Hut: www.britannia.ch from €70 per night

Tourism information Saas Fee: www.saas-fee.ch

Experience Champery for activities: www.experiencechampery.ch

Switzerland Tourism: www.myswitzerland.com

Cantine de Barmaz; from €70 per night in a dorm- half board.

Swiss Travel Passes: www.travelswitzerland.com

Region Dents du Midi: www.regiondentsdumidi.ch

Swiss - International Airlines: www.swiss.com





Barbara McCarthy

I am a journalist, photographer and climate academy based in Dublin. This site is a platform for my work.

https://www.barbaramccarthymedia.com
Next
Next

California Dreamin..